Spiti – journey to India’s high-altitude desert valley

Hidden deep within the trans-Himalayan ranges of Himachal Pradesh, Spiti Valley-often called “Little Tibet“-is one of India‘s most breathtaking and remote destinations. Perched at an altitude of 12,500 feet, this cold desert valley offers stark landscapes, ancient monasteries, high passes, and a cultural heritage untouched by modernity. For adventurous travelers, Spiti is less a vacation spot and more an expedition into nature’s raw beauty and timeless spirituality.
The first thing that strikes you about Spiti is silence-not the absence of sound, but the kind of silence that feels alive. At 12,500 feet above sea level, with jagged peaks scratching the sky and a sapphire river carving its way through the valley floor, Spiti feels less like a destination and more like a different planet.
I began my journey from Shimla, following the old Hindustan-Tibet road that snakes its way through Kinnaur. The roads were narrow, clinging to cliffs, with the Sutlej roaring far below. Every bend revealed a new face of the Himalayas-lush pine valleys giving way to barren, wind-sculpted mountains as I climbed higher into the rain shadow of the range. By the time I crossed into Spiti, the greenery had vanished, replaced by ochre, grey, and rust-colored slopes etched by centuries of wind.
Monasteries in the Sky
My first stop was Key Monastery, a thousand-year-old fortress of whitewashed walls perched like a crown above the valley. Prayer flags fluttered madly in the thin air, carrying whispered mantras into the wind. Inside, butter lamps flickered and the scent of juniper hung heavy. Monks in crimson robes moved silently, their chants deep and resonant. I sat in a corner, trying to breathe slowly-not just to fight the altitude, but to take in the weight of this ancient peace.
Next came Tabo Monastery, known as the “Ajanta of the Himalayas.” The clay walls, covered with murals dating back to the 10th century, glowed in soft lamplight. My guide told me that Tabo has been continuously inhabited for over a thousand years. I felt humbled, knowing that pilgrims had been sitting on these very floors long before I was born, long before my country even existed in its present form.
Villages at the Top of the World
Spiti’s villages feel like scenes from a forgotten tale. In Langza, I stayed with a local family in a traditional mud-brick house. Their kitchen was warm with the smell of butter tea and tsampa (barley flour). Outside stood a colossal Buddha statue, gazing calmly across snow-dusted peaks. Fossils-remnants of the ocean that once covered these mountains-lay scattered in the fields.
In Hikkim, I mailed postcards from the world’s highest post office, a tiny hut that still hand-stamps every letter. At Komic, the highest motorable village in Asia, children chased me down dusty lanes, their laughter louder than the wind. These moments, small and human, were as memorable as the mountains themselves.
The Road to Chandratal
Leaving Kaza, the valley’s main town, I headed toward Chandratal Lake. The road was no more than a suggestion in the rock-unpaved, bumpy, and thrillingly close to the edge. But when I arrived, I understood why every traveler swears by it. Chandratal shimmered like liquid silver under the afternoon sun, its crescent shape mirrored perfectly in still water. That night, camping under a canopy of stars brighter than I’d ever imagined, I realized Spiti’s greatest gift: perspective. In a world that feels endlessly noisy and urgent, this valley teaches patience and awe.
Traveling Through Thin Air
Travel in Spiti is not easy. The air is thin, the sun fierce, and the roads demanding. But that is precisely what keeps it pristine. I learned to carry water at all times, to let my body adjust to the altitude slowly, and to live without internet or phone signal for days at a time. And surprisingly, I didn’t miss it.
Why Spiti Stays With You
When I finally crossed Kunzum Pass and began the descent toward Manali, I felt a tug of sadness. Spiti is not the kind of place you “do” and then tick off your list. It lingers. It’s the smile of the old woman who pressed butter tea into my hands before I could even take my shoes off. It’s the sound of monks chanting as the first light of dawn hits snow peaks. It’s the endless night sky where you remember just how small you are-and how vast the world can be.
Best season
June to September (roads open, weather pleasant)
Getting there
From Shimla via Kinnaur (long but open year-round) or from Manali via Rohtang & Kunzum Pass (open only in summer)
Stay options
Homestays in Langza, Hikkim, and Kaza; basic camps near Chandratal
Must-do
Visit monasteries, mail a card from Hikkim, try yak butter tea, stargaze at night, and take it slow. Spiti isn’t just a place. It’s an experience of stillness, a reminder that beauty often hides where the road ends.
(By Shriya Sharma, who is an avid traveler)